Lanterns have been appearing all over town for the past few weeks in preparation for Buddha's birthday on May 3rd. Last weekend, I headed down to Daegu for the Dalgubeol Lantern Festival (대구 달구벌 등불 축제). I left Saturday morning and it was about a 3 and a half hour bus ride. I was meeting friends who were coming from Seoul, so I found a coffee shop in the bus terminal and read for a bit while waiting for their bus to get in. I totally disappointed my friend - we haven't seen each other in about a year and a half, so she was expecting a big reaction when she walked up to me. I was sitting in this coffee shop, reading, and she walked over to my table and said, "Excuse me, can I sit here?" I didn't even look up, I just immediately started moving my things off the table so someone could sit down. She had been filming it on her phone and she was like, "You were supposed to be surprised!" I was like, "I WAS - I was surprised that someone was speaking to me in English!"
We took the subway to our hotel and got checked in, then took a cab right over to Duryu Park for the festival. We didn't have tickets to actually fly a lantern, so we needed to get wristbands for free admission into the park, and there was so much confusion. No one spoke English and we had no idea how to ask about the wristbands in Korean. Everyone just kept telling us that it was sold out. We finally found a very kind man who was handing out wristbands, did some charades to convey that we needed wristbands, and he gave us detailed instructions about where we needed to go to get in to the park. In Korean, of course. I understood enough of what he was saying, so I was like, [in Korean] "Okay, I understand, thank you so much." Him: "Oh, you speak Korean?!" No, sir, I really don't, but I'll take that as a huge compliment.
Anyway, we finally got in and got seats. My friend went to get food and ended up stealing someone else's chicken delivery... so we ate well! There was entertainment, too; a monk played a really sweet drum solo, there was a chorus of hanbok-wearing ladies, and there were performances of old trot songs I had no business knowing but could totally sing along to.
It finally got dark enough to do the lanterns, and it was amazing.
The pictures don't even do it justice. It was really incredible to be there.
"That was truly a religious experience. I'm converting."
"To Lanternism."
The festival ended with fireworks and a parade.
Jingcheonggak - Governor's residence. Built in 1601, destroyed by fires in 1670, 1730, and 1806. Reconstructed in 1807, renovated in 1970.
We spent Sunday walking around Daegu - saw a few parks and went back to Duryu Park to check out E-World (an amusement park) and go to the top of 83 Tower.
First was Gyeongsamgamyeong Park (경상감영공원), which was built in 1601. These were government buildings until the provincial offices moved to a different location in 1965 and this area was opened as a public space.
Shopping street near Daegu Station
I enjoyed walking around Daegu. It's a big city, but there's a much more laid-back feeling than in Seoul. Also, everyone was very nice. Literally every time I was on the subway I had an older woman strike up conversation with me. It was terrifying. I was carrying a lotus lantern that was given to me at the festival and a woman asked me about it. I had no idea how to answer her, so I basically just told her that it was for Buddha's birthday, sorry, I can't speak Korean. She said, [in English] "Me too." So cute. I had a good conversation with another woman, she was asking where I was going and where I'm originally from, so I was able to tell her about myself and I asked her a few questions about Daegu.
Yeongnamjeilgwan - southern gate of Daegu, built in 1736, destroyed/moved? during Japanese colonial period, rebuilt in 1980.
So.... you come here often?
View of Daegu from 83 Tower
Bonus pictures: a typical school lunch in Korea. I actually really liked this one - there's no seafood involved. And me.
1 comments
Nikki,
ReplyDeleteHaven't been following along since the first post you made. Asked your mom on how you were doing. She gave me the info to follow your blog so I will do so from now on. The pictures are gorgeous and your writings are great. You look good and seem to be very happy. I bet you are glad you did this. What an experience. Take care, be safe and I will read your blog more often.
Marge from Fischer Cunnane